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Uncle Orson's Restaurant Guide
L'Auberge Chez Francois
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think that recently they've taken to calling the place simply "Chez Francois." Located in a little white house in the woods not far from the Potomac, with a roller-coaster ride of a country road to take you there, this restaurant is charmingly and authentically French — including the idea that the meal is the evening's entertainment. They don't try to get two seatings out of every table (The Outback and other such chains try for three), and you don't try to eat dinner and still get to a movie — not even the nine-thirty show.
The meals are wonderfully creative yet authentically French (that's the only language spoken in the kitchen, so even the American waiters learn to speak fluently if only to know when they're being criticized). The escargot is not just a test of American bravery — it's cooked just right so the flavor and mouth-feel of the snail are a pleasure, and the sauce is garlicky but not overpowering. Beware, though, that if you aren't familiar with the snail-handling pincers, you can end up splashing sauce all over your suit and into your dinner companion's eye. (Do you detect a hint of experience here? Sorry, Lynne Van Atta!)
The breads and garlic toast served beforehand are so good — especially with their perfect curd spread — that you'll be tempted to eat too much. Resist! You don't want to spoil the rest of the meal! My favorite appetizer is the sausage and sauerkraut. I hate sauerkraut, but I love what they do with it. In fact, that's a rule of thumb when dining Chez Francois: Even if you hate it served anywhere else, you'll like the way they make it here.
I've never known anyone to be disappointed with their entree, but the most spectacular one is the salmon in puff pastry. So large they only serve it divided between two people, a salmon filet is baked inside a perfect pastry that is shaped like a stout golden fish. Inside, along with the salmon, you'll find a perfect mix of crabmeat, vegetables, and spices that will make this one of your most memorable dining experiences.
But the piece de resistance (see? It brings out the French in me ...) is the souffle. Don't bother with the chocolate or grand marnier, though they're just fine. It's the raspberry you have to have. The souffle looks heavy enough to kill a dog if you dropped it on its head, but when you taste it, it's so light you think you're eating the most delicious air. And the waiter will deftly break the crust for you and pour in the raspberry sauce, which adds a flavor to every bite that will leave you wishing you hadn't eaten so much bread or salad.
You must have reservations, and while they don't require you to dress up, you'll feel a little out of place if you come in jeans and t-shirt, though you'll be fine in a nice shirt or sweater and slacks.
703-759-3800
332 Springvale Rd. Get on Georgetown Pike (state highway 193) from Route 7, and Springvale Rd. is the second or third light. Turn left (north) and go two miles through gorgeous countryside over stomach-churning hills.