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Uncle Orson's Restaurant Guide
Il Fornaio
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o restaurant in the United States has reminded me of my favorite Florentine restaurant more than this Beverly Hills corner restaurant. The bakery is a popular stop in its own right, leaving the restaurant itself with only a rather narrow space barely augmented, in good weather, by an even narrower sidewalk space. (In the LA area, outdoor seating is the smoking section — but having people blowing smoke at you while you eat is part of the authentic European experience.)
The bread basket is generous and is at its best when you dip the bread in olive oil. I can't tell you much about the appetizers, because I can never bring myself to order anything but the gorgeous mozzarella caprese for the first course. The buffalo mozzarella is invariably moist and fresh; it quite spoils you for lesser offerings in other cities and other restaurants (though I Cugini, in Santa Monica, is almost always in the same league).
With unforgettably delicious sauces, every entree I've tried has been a pleasure. I admit that I return again and again to my favorite ravioli dish — the lobster ravioli, though it's called something else on the menu. (I don't have a copy with me and can't remember what the name of the dish is. But it's described as ravioli after the name.)
The still water is Panna, of course — what else, in an Italian restaurant worthy of the name? And even though you sometimes find yourself waiting for a table, even with a reservation, it's a cheerful place and well worth the wait. The waiters are busy but they're up to the task, and special requests are always honored.
Parking is easy — there's a city parking structure just half a block up Beverly, on the left. A lot of Beverly Hills shops exist only because they're in Beverly Hills — that is, they rely for their success on customers with more money than brains. But Il Fornaio is that most unlikely thing: Food so good you can't believe you're getting it for so little (compared to other LA establishments). It is one of the few places I enjoy so much I'll even go there alone. I'm the guy with the beard and a book.
Il Fornaio
Beverly Hills
Two blocks north of Wilshire on Beverly, on the left. City parking structure half a block north on the left.
310-550-8330