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Greensboro, NC |
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Uncle Orson's Restaurant Guide
Senyor de Perelada
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The cabbage roll appetizer was quite good, though not at all what I expected; apparently Russians and Catalans have very different ideas of what to do with forcemeat and cabbage. In fact, the meat wasn't even rolled up in the cabbage as I had expected, but seemed to be cooked right in with it. All is forgiven, though, when it's delicious.
The onion soup was good, too — a creamy soup because the cheese is melted right in it from the start, or so it seems. I wish I had known that the soup involved dropping a draw egg in at the last minute, though; I could have happily skipped that step, since it just cooled the soup without cooking the egg at all. The yolk was fine, but the gloppy thick part of the transparent albumen was disgusting. So specify "sin ovo," unless you're a fan of egg drop soups.
Main courses, though, were astonishingly good. Kristine's sole was some of the best she's had, and my "lamb shank with twelve garlics" was wonderful. The garlic was presented as an aioli covering a potato — delicious in their own right — and the lamb shank was the best I've had since they closed the Rendezvous in Greensboro. Three hours cooking and it was falling off the bone, but had lost not a bit of its flavor, though it was also good when dipped in the aioli.
The lemon sorbet at the end was very good; but either the waiter misunderstood Kristine's order or Senyor de Perelada's idea of a chocolate mousse is something suspiciously like a mocha torte. (We didn't complain about the missed dessert, though, since we knew we were heading for Gelateria Dino afterward.) And our erstwhile vegetarian dinner companion swears that her entree of beans was delicious, though to me it looked like penance for some unimaginable gustatory sin.
Located in the heart of the Barri Gotic, Senor de Perelada is only a short walk from the Iglesia de Santa Maria del Mer — take a moment and poke your head in. This grand church — the one the princess wanted to be married in before more politically savvy parents persuaded her that the cathedral was the appropriate place — is remarkably free of plaster-saint side chapels, so the architecture reigns supreme. And if, as we were, you're lucky enough to hear a concert in progress, you might be tempted to be late for dinner — I think even my poor voice would sound like Pavarotti with the help of those acoustically vibrant stone walls and pillars.
Senyor de Perelada
Argenteria, 37
Barcelona