posted
Ok. So biking is cool and I'm trying to do more of it because it's exercise, it gets me where I'm going, and it's fun. I'm headed off to college next year at the University of Michigan, and my parents have offered to at least help pay for a new bike for my graduation present. I'm conflicted about it because I don't want to get a crazy expensive bike if I won't find time to use it, and also even any new bike I don't want stolen the second I take it on campus. The campus is small enough that walking is at least potentially feasible for most tasks, but biking would be faster and more efficient etc, and I think I'd want my bike if only to ride for fun on the weekends or such when I'm there.
So. The questions are these: What do you guys suggest in terms of bike, I'm looking mainly at a road bike or cyclocross, or a hybrid or whatever... Something fast that is mainly for pavement.
What are your experiences with the stealing of bikes specifically on college campuses (I think if I do end up taking a bike to campus I'll lock it with at least a U lock, if not also with a cable.)
Annd yeah, for those who can offer an opinion, i can't imagine that at this point I'd get clipless pedals, but maybe I could use those for non-commuting times? orr even then also? What are your thougths on clipless vs clipped vs plain ol' pedals.
So, I'm interested to hear your thoughts, experiences, opinions...
Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Don't ever leave it overnight on campus, but a U-lock will probably keep it safe enough...
A used bike from a good shop is indeed a good choice. Pick a style you like (that's not one of the 90's "hybrids"... ick).
I'm going to convert bike to a fixed-gear when I have time to repair it next week. (A little trendy maybe, but so much fun)
Posts: 1592 | Registered: Jan 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
I was recommneded to spend around 10% of the value of the bike on a lock or locks.
For my moountain-bike I spent 100GBP on a motorbike lock (big bike chain) , after the previous bike was stolen despite being locked with an expensive U-Lock. It is a heavy thing, but for my bike was my main form of transport and I couldnĄt afford to replace it. Cheaper to buy a good lock than a new bike...
I still have the bike, but now I don't live in London I don't used the super lock so much anymore.
Another security tip, learned fromthe cycle couriers, who oftern had realy nice bikes, is that it's the appearance of you bike that attracks the theif. Wrapping tape or innertubes around the frame, or even removing decals makes the bike more anonymous.
A tatty looking bike doesn't get nicked. You can't hide good components, but at least you avoid opportunist theives.
Posts: 892 | Registered: Oct 2006
| IP: Logged |
I've heard it said you should spend 10% of the value of the bike on a lock, preferably two.
My wife and I bought bikes worth $2500 each. The first day out at training, we went for a run after the ride, locked 'em up with our trusty $50 flexible lock that had served our cheap commuters so well. It was a popular park, lots of people around.
Came back and Jus' bike was gone. They didn't even care that we'd put our front wheels in the car - you can always steal one off another bike.
After doing a bit of research, I saw a comparison of bike locks done by a reputable magazine that cut through my bike lock with small concealable bolt-cutters in about 1.8 seconds.
So, after we bought Jus a new bike - we hadn't yet sorted out insurance - we went out and spent about $500 on locks.
I can't recall exactly which ones we got, but:
- get a good U-lock as this is good at preventing a lot of the cutting-style attacks - get a good chain locks as this is good at defeating leverage attacks
Make sure you actually lock your bike to something. Sheldon Brown's got a good article on it.
And here's a short summation I did for my triathlon club:
quote: As promised, I've put together a quick roundup of the CyclingPlus magazine testing and review of locks.
A couple of important points: The mag is UK-based and tests for London conditions: so it's hardcore, their bike theft problem is extreme. The tests comprised of two forms of attack: 1) Manual With these tests they threw everything non-powered they could at the lock - big bolt-cutters, hacksaws, axes, etc. If the lock survives, it passes onto the second battery.
2) Power Tools The testers used battery-powered angle-grinders, drills and other tools to attack the lock.
It's worth noting that *none* of the locks survived the power tools, but those that I'm putting in here lasted more than a minute - and made huge amounts of noise to get through.
U LOCKS Many brands totally failed the first tests by applying leverage or bolt-cutters. Most failed in under 30 seconds. The two that did the best were:
Abus Granit X-Plus and Kryptonite New York 3000 mini In both cases the locks survived the manual attack and lasted over two minutes under power tools. Both have seriously thick U bolts made of tough composite steel that's impossible to cut through with normal bolt cutters. They also penetrate deeply into the locking area. The Kryptonite locking area is double-sheathed, but its main protection comes from being *really* small - thieves can't get enough leverage to do the damage.?
- Abus Granit X Plus: lasted 2 mins 34 sec against power tools I've only seen them at Brunswick St Cycles for about $200.
- Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini: lasted 2 min 59 sec against power tools You can get these just about anywhere at about the same price as the Abus. Bear in mind it's *really* small.
- OnGuard Pitbull Std: lasted 19 seconds against power tools While this one didn't last that long, it still took powertools to kill it and it's a lot cheaper: $55 from MBC, bikes.com.au
CABLES Here's the bad news - the kind of standard "twisted-steel with rubber sheathing" cable lock was destroyed by small bolt-cutters, hacksaws and even leatherman tools in as little as 2.8 seconds. The one we had cost $50 and probably lasted about that long.
There's only one serious cable-lock: the Abus?Steeloflex Granit 1000.
This one lasted nearly 2 minutes of power-tool attack. There's basically a series of links which are designed to crush, but not break. They cover a much harder series of inner links and the whole lot is covered in rubber?
This is one seriously expensive lock - again BSC had it for $170. Be careful tho - the Abus Centuro looks almost identical and is only $70. It wasn't tested by C+ but it only gets a Bronze rating by SoldSecure, an independent testing firm. The Granit gets the gold tho.
CHAINS Neither the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit chain and lock or the Abus high-end chain & lock performed better than the Abus Granit Steeloflex cable, but they both managed well over a minute against power tools.
The big advantage of both of these chain & lock systems is that they're fantastic visual deterrents. They just look totally bad-ass and impenetrable. No-one but the most serious powertool-packing thief, has any hope of getting through these locks. They're big, heavy and expensive.
- Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain: lasted 1 min 19 secs against power tools This looks the biz, but costs about $190 just about anywhere.
- Abus Granit Chain: lasted about 52 secs against powertools It weight about 1 kilo less than the Kryptonite, but costs around $300
So, as to the bike itself:
A lot of people don't recommend road bikes for commuting, I guess because they feel it's not comfortable enough. I like it 'cause it's FAST.
Personally, I wouldn't commute on anything else anymore.
I love my bike to bits, but it's easy to get caught up in marketing hype. The one thing that's really important is the groupset: everything to do with the gears. The better that is, the tougher it is and the smoother it will shift.
If you're going road, don't get anything less than a Shimano 105 groupset. Campangolo also do good gear.
While it's nice to get a full/part carbon bike, it's not 100% necessary: but it can make the frame more comfortable, not to mention lighter.
GET GOOD LIGHTS.
Little blinky ones are not enough - you need to scare the living bejebus out of all and sundry with the sheer wattage of the miniature sun on your bars/helmet.
Get a bike computer - you'll want to beat your previous speeds.
And yeah, maybe start off with a nice second hand one.
Cyclocross are also a lot of fun. Not as fast, but tougher and you can usually add pannier racks.
Posts: 2245 | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Thanks Troubador, that's a great summary. Did you have special insurance for her bike or is it covered under something else? or just not at all. Are there decent bike computers that aren't 100+ dollars?
Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
There are tons of them under $100... this is a link to Performance...I'm not necessarily endorsing them but it has a good list of cyclometers CyclometersPosts: 1918 | Registered: Mar 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Regardless of the precautions you take, try to prepare yourself for your bike to be stolen anyway. I was recently really frustrated to hear that my brother's bike was stolen on campus about a month ago. It was not an expensive or new bike (it was about 6 years old), but it had sentimental value and was his main source of transportation (his wife usually takes their car to work). He routinely locked it with 3 different locks (I believe he used a U-lock, a cable, and a third lock of a kind I don't remember). He came out of class one day to the full bike rack to find someone had stolen it. So, even if you are careful, there are still *!#$%# out there who will try to steal it. Posts: 5879 | Registered: Apr 2001
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by anti_maven: Another security tip, learned fromthe cycle couriers, who oftern had realy nice bikes, is that it's the appearance of you bike that attracks the theif. Wrapping tape or innertubes around the frame, or even removing decals makes the bike more anonymous.
My FIL ran a small electrical contractor company for 15 years. He had lots of very expensive tools (conduit benders and cable pullers and whatnot) that came in very sexy, shiney packages that were irresistable to the thieves in the crappy neighborhoods he regularly worked in.
To combat casual theft, he took all those shiney boxes and sprayed them with crappy, ugly spray paint. He didn't prep the surface or anything, just oversprayed the crap out of it. After a couple of days of use, the equipment started to look much, much older than it actually was and significantly less attractive.
Now, if you want your bike to be shiney and sexy, that wouldn't work for you, but if it's a tool for exercise and transportation, then it's up to you to decide if it also has to be pretty.
Posts: 4753 | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Primal Curve, that's what the guy that sold me my new bike recommended. Duct tape, let little kids spray paint it, glue a few oddly placed but significant-looking bolts on it here and there. I love it.
Posts: 14017 | Registered: May 2000
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by ludosti: Regardless of the precautions you take, try to prepare yourself for your bike to be stolen anyway. I was recently really frustrated to hear that my brother's bike was stolen on campus about a month ago. It was not an expensive or new bike (it was about 6 years old), but it had sentimental value and was his main source of transportation (his wife usually takes their car to work). He routinely locked it with 3 different locks (I believe he used a U-lock, a cable, and a third lock of a kind I don't remember). He came out of class one day to the full bike rack to find someone had stolen it. So, even if you are careful, there are still *!#$%# out there who will try to steal it.
Perhaps three different locks tells an unsophisticated thief that here is a very valuable bike.
Posts: 4287 | Registered: Mar 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Congrats on going to UM! It's a pretty cool place, lots of things to do.
A bike is useful up there (and fun), but not necessary. UM has a bus/shuttle system between the main campus areas and Ann Arbor has a farther reaching bus system. Bike racks are all over the place. I don't know how common bike theft is.
Posts: 2149 | Registered: Aug 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I go through a specialist insurance company here in Australia, which covers our bikes in pretty much any circumstance.
I think that's equally important.
While it is a good idea starting off riding a crappy bike - I started tri training on a 1980's frame shifter 3 sizes too big for me with a groupset that sounded like a 2-stroke mower. But it gave me the time to understand what I wanted and needed in a bike and made me appreciate even small increments of improvements in the quality.
Which hellaciously fast on the flats and so much fun to ride, but ultimately not suitable to the hills of my new hometown in Sydney, so I'm selling it off. I'll probably get a mountain bike for some of the great trails around here.
If you decide you want something a little more rugged and capable of taking panniers, then you could look at something like the Surly Cross Check. They're an awesome steel-framed bike that I've always admired. It's really tough and looks fantastic, but low-key in the black configuration. Plus it has all the eyelets for panniers.
posted
Yeah... I am so far from ready to spend 2k on a bike right now... It is just so hard to justify until I have "proven" my interest in biking, and even then... that's a lot of money.
My friend's dad has an old road bike he might be looking to sell as he's probably getting a new bike... Hopefully I'll like that and he'll sell it for an acceptable price... At any rate I'm thinking used is the way to go, at least for me, for now. Sooo yeah. I got a new pair of running shoes today so gotta get some running in for the next few weeks to see if I like them. At any rate, a new bike is one of the less-pressing issues I have to deal with presently. (my friend just got a 900 dollar cyclocross bike for his graduation present, the friend whose dad is thinking of getting himself a new bike, and it is just so sleek and freaking awesome and it's all exciting thinking about if I had a bike like that, until I remember the 900 dollars (which I realize is not necessary to have something decently good))
posted
I think the bike I'm using now I received as a present like 10 years ago and probably cost a little more than a hundred dollars. Is it stellar? Nope. Gets me from point A to point B? Yep.
But would I like a better bike? You betcha. I guess the bright side is that no one will steal my crappy bike so a moderate lock is fine.
Posts: 21898 | Registered: Nov 2004
| IP: Logged |
quote: Oh yeah - and go clipless pedals as soon as you can. It seems scary at first and you will fall at some point - but you gain serious speed.
You will be amazed at how much speed you can gain and as for falling....I fell more after I stopped than when I was riding. I would unclip one shoe and leave the other shoe clipped in. Then I would lean just a touch to far to the clipped in side and topple over. Make sure you take a wider stance and keep your weight on the foot on the ground when stopped. People will laugh if you ride through a very difficult section with no issues and the fall over when stopped...and rightly so EDIT: To echo above...You should always wear a helmet
Posts: 1918 | Registered: Mar 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Yeah, I wear a helmet, makes it legal if I need to use the road for a bit, and keeps my noggin safe in case of catastrophe. So if you're going some place with clipless pedals do you just change your shoes when you get there, or what?
Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
You don't need clipless pedals for what you're talking about doing. It's not worth taking an extra pair of shoes.
Also, if you're living on campus you might find you're walking everywhere with classmates and dormmates, making a bike a social detriment to you. Not that you won't still occasionally use it to get to class, or ride it on weekends, but just to let you know you might not use it as much as you expect to.
Posts: 5462 | Registered: Apr 2005
| IP: Logged |
I use a carbon-soled shoe that you really can't walk in - the carbon provides ultimate stiffness and transfers maximum power through the sole to the pedal.
However you can get shoes that are anything from fully rigid to completely flexible. Some look like normal sneakers and have recessed cleats, making walking easy but still giving you more power on the bike.
Posts: 2245 | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Those shoes tend to be expensive, and are frequently hideous looking.
Also, how much more pedal power do you need to cross campus?
I loved my clip-ins when I did long training rides, but they were a total pain when I wanted to ride my bike across campus.
Posts: 5462 | Registered: Apr 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Once I got my carbon fiber bike, I never used a lock again. Instead, I simply took it inside with me where ever I went. I walked it up and down supermarket aisles, I brought it into a fancy italian restaurant, I brought it into the bank, and I brought it to class with me and leaned it up against the wall. I always keep my bike IN MY HOUSE, not in a garage or shed or whatever.
The only people that complained were the people at the bank, and they backed off when I asked who would pay for my bike when it got stolen. In general, I think people understand that bikes get stolen, and unless the bike is filthy or something, there really isn't a problem with it. If you're nervous about it, just ask first.
BTW, I used to work at a bike shop, and I've seen thieves hacksaw through a $1000 frame just to get the groupo, so a lock really doesn't protect much. And also, remove the fork from the frame and on the steering tube, write "this bike is stolen. Call (phone number)". If it's a decent bike, and it finds its way to a bike shop after it gets stolen, the bike mechanic will find it when they grease the headset bearings.
I definitely prefer road bikes, but my kids both have mountain bikes. A lot of bike couriers used to use mountain bikes, but with "city slicker" tires. It makes it easy to jump curbs, but the rolling resistance is still pretty low. IRC metros are good. They've got the bouncy fat boy comfort, but since they're slick, they have very low rolling resistance compared to knobbies. And don't worry about traction, unless you're in loose gravel or mud, slick tires have better traction than knobbies. (Bike tires are too narrow to hydroplane)
I also prefer clipless pedals, but it makes going for a ride into a more formal event. If you want to be able to jump on the bike and go anytime you want, or if you're just making short hops around campus, get regular pedals. You can get toe cages if you really want, but you don't need them unless you're going for a serious ride.
I also concur with the shimano 105 groupo. This is a real breaking point between department store junk and a real bike. I don't know what the equivalent groupo for mountain bikes is, but a bike with a group set, as opposed to a random collection of components, is probably good sign.
Posts: 3735 | Registered: Mar 2002
| IP: Logged |
But of course, you're right - if it's just for riding across campus, who cares? Get a beater or a hipster-fixie and go for it. If he's thinking about doing any other kind of riding, clipless is the way to go.
Posts: 2245 | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Wow, thanks for all the responses. I agree that riding just cross-campus I'd have no real need for clipless, I think things like that, and justifying getting a bike all come down to enjoyment. Whether I will enjoy riding more if I know I'm not cheating myself out of having a better bike. Things like that.
So... when you say "make sure you get a good gearset" or good group set... Is that just the gears? or the gears, brakes, shifters conglomeration. .. Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
The groupset is pretty much everything that's to do with gears and brakes. It includes brakes, shifters, chains, chainrings and derailleurs.
The nice thing about 105 groupsets and above, apart from their smooth shifting and reliability is that the brakes and shifters are integrated more nicely than in the lower end stuff. It's a bit hard to explain, but essentially you move your brake levers laterally to shift up/down (depending on the side of the handlebars) and there's a smaller lever tucked in behind the main brake lever to do the opposite. It's very intuitive.
Of course, there's other brands than shimano, but 105 is probably the best value for money.
Posts: 2245 | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Yeah my friend's new bike has that kind of shifter. I'd be confused if I hadn't seen it, and it seems really nifty and convenient. The bike I'm riding right now has a bad habit of spontaneously shifting back and forth between casette gears, or at least slipping, when it's around the middle (3-4 of 6 gears). Any idea what could be causing that? The gears themselves seem straight, but the rear wheel is slightly bent, so maybe that's doing it? And occasionally if I were to back pedal I could take my chain off because it doesn't want to slide through (the back I believe). Anyways... again, thanks for all question-answering. It's just so much easier to get relavent information asking people specifically than just searching online.
Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have realized this, but I shy away from it for ethical reasons, and the knowledge of how horrible that would be, obviously. I just have a hard time figuring out who can go out and steal someone's bike and then show themselves in public to anybody who knows they stole it... it's just so vile.
Posts: 655 | Registered: May 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
Your shifting problem is likely to be a problem in the rear derailleur or derailleur hanger, If the hanger itself (the little bit of metal that rear derailleur hangs off, usually attached to the same point of the frame that the rear wheel slides into, but only on the chain side) isn't bent, then it's probably just that the derailleur itself needs a little bit of fine-tuning.
Sheldon Brown's site has some useful hints on those sort of adjustments (note, he likes to spell 'derailleur' in his own special way) and some good explanations of how it all works.
It could also be that the rear cassette and/or chain is just too worn/stretched.
Posts: 2245 | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
The shifting problem could also easily come from a worn out or just dirty chain. The first thing I would do is to clean and lubricate the chain really well and see if it helps the problem. It is helps but doesn't make it go away, replace the chain.
I would never recommend riding a high end road bike for commuting, particularly on a college campus where bike thefts are so common.
If you want to both commute around campus and do some serious road riding, get two bikes -- an old cruiser from a used bike shop or e-bay with fenders and lights and flat peddles and a decent racing bike. Ride the racing bike when you are going out for a long fast ride and otherwise keep it inside where it won't tempt the thieves.
BTW, I'd look for a used racing bike. A lot of people with more money than sense by high end bikes, ride them only a couple of times and then sell them after they've sat in the garage for two years gathering dust. Its not that hard to find a used bike in nearly new condition for a fraction of the new price. Check out bike swaps and e-bay.
On college campuses, a lot of kids will buy an expensive bike at the beginning of the semester and then sell it late in the semester when they've run out of money. You can get some good deals that way too.
On the pedals issue, clipless pedals are great for riding long distance and riding fast. They suck for commuting where there is lots of stopping and starting both because of the hassle and hazard of constantly clicking in and out of the pedal and because its difficult to walk in the special cleated shoes.
I have one bike with pedals that are clipless on one side and flat on the other. These are great if you will be using one bike for both long fast rides and commuting but it does make it a bit harder to click in because you have to flick the pedal over first.
Also, SPD pedalss (the most common clipless variety) have a limited amount of rotation. If your feet and knees aren't straight this will increase the amount of stress on your knees and ankles and may cause problems with your joints. Bebops and speedplay pedals have more rotation but they are also very pricey.
Posts: 12591 | Registered: Jan 2000
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[Frown]](frown.gif)
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
